Melbourne: Top Picks

Everyone seems to have a favourite between Melbourne and Sydney. Having absolutely loved Sydney I spent some time discovering Melbourne’s sights and hidden gems to help cast my vote.

Watching the tennis at Federation Square

Federation Square

I chose the right week to visit Melbourne. There was a real buzz in the air with the Australian Open showing on the big screen in Fed Square. 

Melburnians and tourists alike congregated to watch the matches that were being played just down the river at the National Tennis Centre.

I spent my last evening in Melbourne, before the less luxurious lifestyle in Borneo, watching the final. The skyscrapers as a backdrop to the big screen as the sun was setting was beautiful (even though Murray didn’t win!)

The tennis combined with Australia Day on the 26^th gave an extra buzz to the square. Cafes were full of cheerful natter and picnics were laid out on blankets on the chilly summer’s day.

The fireworks couldn’t be compared to New Year in Sydney but I don’t think anything can be! It was still good fun; waiting for a break in the tennis the sky light up as everyone dashed to the South Bank to get a better view.

Melbourne

South Bank

With a resemblance to Putney in London the Yarra river is home to Melbourne's rowing clubs. Strolling along the banks watching the rowers train it was easy to forget I was in the second biggest city in the country. The palm trees scattered through the lush green gardens were, however a quick reminder I was nowhere near Putney Bridge!

Heading back to the hustle and bustle of the city the promenade was lined with bars – full of people having a drink after work or like us, tourists enjoying the sunshine in January!

The Lanes 

Wonderful small streets lined with coffee shops and quirky shops were a far cry from the clean, almost swarve nature of Sydney. Settling into one of the many cafes we watched the world go by in the characterful street.

If I had it, I could spend a lot of money round here with the boutique shops selling art, clothes and lovely little trinkets.

Kite surfers in St Kilda

St Kilda

Just 20 minutes on a tram lays Melbourne’s beach. 

Mesmerised by the kite surfers we wandered along the promenade – seeking shelter from the wind in a beach side café before venturing out again to explore this beautiful area.

The shops lining the streets behind the sea are what made me love this place, more so than the actual beach front. 

Not normally one for window shopping I found myself whiling away the afternoon poking in and out of the little independent shops  – always greeted with a friendly smile.

Sunset in St Kilda

Waiting for the sun to set (one of the most beautiful sunsets on my trip so far) we enjoyed the afternoon sunshine in the beer garden of The Vineyard bar  with excellent, fresh sea food on the menu.

St Kilda is famous for its colony of 1,000 tiny penguins and I was eager to see them as they came in for the evening to rest on the rocks by the pier. 

Unfortunately the well organised viewing platforms and helpful guides  didn’t assist in our viewing and I saw just one penguin popping out of the water (at least I think it was a penguin…)

Penguins or no penguins St Kilda was my favourite place in Melbourne. As for my favourite city… I think I’ll have to take another trip to Sydney before I confirm my choice…

Sydney: Top Picks

New Year Fireworks

Watching the world famous fireworks light up the sky over Sydney was the best way to begin an adventurous 2013.

Making the most of the sunshine and holiday vibe I loved exploring the city. My favourite sights in were:

Bondi to Bronte Cliff Top Walk

Bondi Cliff Top Trail

With the clear blue ocean ahead we headed South round the cliffs as the sweltering sunshine beat down. A few minutes into the walk we spotted dolphins gracefully jumping out of the water to say hello on the last day of the year. This was even more amazing having swum with the beautiful creatures a few days earlier in New Zealand! 

There were plenty of beaches to choose from along the way and we settled on Bronte to soak up the sunshine and have an ice-cream while the surfers caught the last waves of the year.

Shelly Beach

Ferry to Manly

Regular ferries depart from Circular Quay to Manly Beach. We set sail with the Opera House and Harbour Bridge glistening in the sunshine.

Manly on New Year’s Day was, as expected, really busy so we wandered through the promenade and along the shore to the slightly quieter Shelly Beach. A great little cove to soak up some rays and cool off in the calmer waters.

Sunset from the Manly Ferry

The very best part of the day was the ferry back. We timed it so we would be sailing at sunset (something I would definitely recommend.) The light over the water was incredible and I had to pinch myself at the pink sky erupting over the iconic sights of, what is fast becoming, one of my favourite cities.

Pottering around Surrey Hills

After browsing the vintage shops, Surrey Hills is a great place to relax with a glass of wine. We’d been recommended The Winery and with the funky decor and big courtyard garden I can see why it is a favourite with Sydney-siders.

Feeling peckish we popped into Dimitri’s Pizzeria on Crown Street. Greeted with a smile and the tantalising scents of fresh cooking we tucked into possibly one of the best pizzas I’ve ever tasted.

Walking over Sydney Harbour Bridge

View from Sydney Harbour Bridge

A must do on a clear day is taking the train to Milsons Point and walking over the 1,149 meter bridge that links North Sydney with the CBD.

The views are slightly interrupted by the steel slats spanning the entire length of the bridge but I soon got used to that and thoroughly enjoyed the stroll to the harbour.

View from Opera Bar

A drink at Opera Bar

A visit to Sydney wouldn’t be complete without enjoying a glass of wine on a balmy evening at Opera Bar. 

The views were extraordinary with the skyscrapers to one side, the magnificent steel bridge ahead and the billowing sales of the Opera House behind.

Drinks weren’t as extortionate as I’d imagined (although everything in Sydney is pretty pricey!) so we whiled away the evening catching up with friends with the stunning backdrop.

Darling Harbour

Not favoured by my guide book but a must in my opinion. Making the most of Happy Hour we managed to get a reasonable priced dinner at one of the many bars overlooking Cockle Bay.

Darling Harbour

The early evening sun was magical as the jelly fish floated by and the birds sang their evening songs.

Lots of great things to do in a fabulous city and I also enjoyed getting out of town for a day, hiking in the Blue Mountains but that’s for another blog…

The Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains

After a few days of soaking up the sun and sights in Sydney  it was time to put my walking boots back on and hit the mountains.

About 100km West of Sydney lies the infamous Blue Mountains. 247,000 hectares of wilderness dressed with over a million eucalyptus trees.

Stopping at Kings Tableland Lookout the Jamison valley spread out across the horizon. The most mesmerising part of this view was the piercing chirping of the cicadas below.

Hiking down the mountain

Getting down into the valley was incredible (and hot!) Climbing the 280 steps down to Wentworth falls didn’t sound like it would be as hard work as it was. The cockatoos soaring around us as we climbed down the steep steps cut into the rock were a great distraction. It is no wonder that Charles Wentworth and his fellow explorers were deemed heroes when they first crossed the valley in 1813.

Cooling off in the refreshing waters was a real treat before the hard slog back up the mountain in the midday heat.

Next on the itinerary was walking through the valley. Effortlessly we glided down the valley looking out to the Three Sisters on the Scenic World cable car.

The board walk through the forest was crowed (it was the Saturday after New Year so it was bound to be busy..!) but looking up at the canopy of trees looming above us was awesome.

Cable car

Now for the return journey. At a 52 degree incline  the Scenic Railway (originally part of the Katoomba mining tramway) is the steepest railway in the world. I felt like I was on a fairground ride. Holding on tight to the top of the metal mesh ‘cage’ as we whizzed backwards up the valley. It only took a few minutes but was so much fun.

A great day out, a lovely walk and fun trip into the valley. My only disappointment is that the Blue Mountains weren’t very blue…! 

Hobbiton

Hobbiton

The sun shone over the rolling hills of The Shire as we drove through Middle Earth  towards Matamata.

Tours around the, now world famous, farm run every fifteen minutes and hordes of tourists were as eager as us to wonder round the movie set.

Hobbiton

Catching the tour bus from The Shire’s Rest to the Alexander’s farm we wound round the bumpy lanes with some of the 13,000 sheep scattering the lush green hills as we caught our fist glimpses of Hobbiton.

Walking through the rickety gate onto the set was magical with the brightly coloured Hobbit Holes surrounded with beautiful flowers looked after by the five onsite gardeners.

As we meandered around Bag End I was struck by the detail of everything with Hobbit's laundry still hanging on the washing lines swaying in the warm breeze as it did in the film when Bilbo ran off on his quest. 

First time in my life I've felt tall...

The likens that gave an ancient feel to the gates and fences was actually painted on with a yoghurt solution but even close up you couldn’t tell they were fake.

I was pleasantly surprised at how the tour was managed so as not to feel like a big tourist sight (which of course it is) giving us plenty of time to take photos and soak up the wonderful scene.

My seven year old niece was enchanted and made sure she was at the front of the group the whole tour. (Unfortunately she’ll have to wait a few years before she can see the movie though.)  The three year old charmed the group by asking if she would see Pepper Pig too, I’m not sure what Tolkien would have thought of that…

Over looking The Green Dragon Inn from the lake

Past the party tree and over the bridge to The Green Dragon and it was time for a drink. Goblets of beer, cider or non-alcoholic ginger beer were served free from the bar. Welcoming the shade we settled down in one of the comfy seats in the oldy-worldy pub, like the ones you find in the English countryside with the log fires roaring in the winter and beer gardens overflowing in the summer.

Watching the film a couple of days later was brilliant; seeing the likes of Sir Ian McKellen and Martin Freeman walking down the same paths as we had! Even after the story continued and left The Shire I was memorised by the wonderful landscapes featured in The Hobbit An Unexpected Journey, some of which I’ve been privileged to visit during my travels round New Zealand. Now I can’t wait for part two….

Hidden Gems: New Zealand - South Island

Campervan

I’ve spent the past two weeks travelling through the South Island of New Zealand in a campervan with two dear friends; Kat and Lou. Lots of lakes, mountains, adventures, driving and lots of fun!

Discovering some of the beautiful places not given enough credit in the guide books was especially rewarding. My favourite hidden gems are:

Lake Mapourika

Ottos Corner

A three minute walk from Mac Donalds Creek doc campsite leads to a beautiful beach by Lake Mapourika. Swimming in the icy water was refreshing to say the least!

The Information Centre said most people visiting Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers overlook a visit to this lake which is such a shame as it is as stunning as it is freezing!

Cardrona

Cardrona Hotel

Marked on the map as ‘Historical Hotel 1868’ this tiny town is definitely worth a visit even when the ski fields are covered with spring flowers instead of snow. 

We called in taking the scenic route from Wanaka to Queenstown.

The few buildings that make up the town; the hotel, shop and post office were low, ancient by New Zealand’s standards and picture perfect.

The single story hotel had a few rooms and a big garden which felt quintessentially British as we sipped our coffee and tucked into the delicious homemade banana cake.

Popping into the local shop we chatted to one of the town’s sixty residents. The retired school teacher now writes and illustrates children’s books. Kat, a dedicated primary school teacher, couldn't resist buying a signed copy for her class.

Lake Wakatipu

Carlin Creek

Driving out of Queenstown towards Milford Sounds the Wakatipu Lake glistens on the edge of the road. Stopping for lunch at one of the many picnic sites we followed the ‘beach’ sign and took the steep path to the water’s edge. The walk was beautiful but I’d not recommend doing it in flip flops (or jandals at they are called here)!

The clear blue water lapped along the shore feeling more like the sea than a lake. Even though I was tempted, I decided not to swim in this lake.

Lake Swimming

Lake Tekapo

Lakes dominate New Zealand’s South Island and during our campervan adventures they proved good places to take in the scenery and freshen up with a swim.

Lake Mapourika

Our first lake swim was at a secluded picnic area just outside Franz Josef. Parked up early for a relaxing evening before our Fox Glacier ice walk we pulled into the doc campsite at McDonald’s Creek. Just a two minute walk from the site was Ottos Corner with a beach leading to Lake Mapourika.

Lake Mapourika

The water was cold but wonderfully refreshing in the early evening sun. Even with a nearly-full campsite only one other person ventured to the swimming area – maybe because he had heard the shrieks as we plunged into the icy water.

Lake Tekapo

Swimming spot on Lake Tekapo

The bright turquoise blue of Lake Tekapo contrasting with the white peaks of the Southern Alps was so beautiful it was almost unreal. 

The scorching December sun glistened on the water twinkling like the incredible night sky (Tekapo is one of the best places in the world for star gazing.)

Walking past the tiny church and small alpine forest we came to a sandy beach – the perfect place for a swim. 

Being much shallower here the water wasn’t as bitterly cold as the other lakes, although it was still pretty chilly! Our feet sinking quickly into the soft sand it wasn’t quite deep enough for a proper swim but a fantastic place to cool down and chill out before another long drive.

View of Lake Wanaka from Mount Iron

Lake Wanaka

I think Wanaka is my favourite of the lakes we visited with the clear blue water surrounded by lush green fields, vineyards and snow-capped mountains. 

Hiking to the top of Mount Iron in the mid-day sunshine was hot but the lake views were well worth it.

Time to cool down with a swim… A group of teenagers were playing in the crystal water; diving off the floating platform, showing off and having lots of fun. It looked great so we ran into the lake, naively unprepared for how cold it would be. A very quick dip and back to sunbathing on the beach. 

Even though they were icy cold I loved having a dip in the lakes as we travelled through the South Island, and all for free.

Swimming with dolphins

Dusky dolphin

I’ve always wanted to swim with dolphins and with its abundance of sea-life Kaikoura seemed like the best place.

Unsure of our plans we weren’t able to book too far in advance but Dolphin Encounter operate a great waiting-list system so we managed to get the date and time we wanted.

When our booking was confirmed it was a crystal clear summer day and we were so excited about our swim with wild dolphins.

Kit

Waking up on the day of the swim to sheets of rain and gusts of wind our excitement wavered.  Assured that even with the moderate weather warning we would still be able to swim we made our way to the Encounters HQ.

A huge array of wetsuits, flippers, snorkels and even prescription goggles were available and the team showed great care to make sure everyone was kitted out comfortably.

A short safety video and it was time to go…

The rain hadn’t subsided as we reached the port and the dark sky loomed over the choppy water of the mighty pacific ocean. The waves poured into the boat as we set sail in search of the dolphins. The waves were too much for some, with people  turning white from sea-sickness (luckily there were lots of buckets on board..!)

Even in these conditions catching our first glimpse of the dolphins was incredible as they jumped gracefully in and out of the water.

As the boat came to a halt we sat on the edge of the deck with the ferocious waves ready to pull us out to sea – I think my knuckles tuned white holding on to the rail so tight. 

Dusky dolphins

I didn’t even notice the ice cold water penetrating through my wetsuit as the waves engulfed us.  The buoyant wetsuits kept us afloat as we put our heads under, eager to see the dolphins around us.

We had three opportunities to swim. On the second swim I had seen a small dolphin right beneath me and decided I’d end on a high and sit the third swim out. But when our wonderful guide, Tracy, pointed to the huge pod of dolphins right next to the boat I couldn’t resist fighting through the waves one more time to get another glimpse of the beautiful creatures.

What a magical experience! I’m not sure how many there were but it felt like hundreds of dolphins playing and swimming around us as we floated just inches above them.

Dolphin Encounter boat

Advised to make noise to encourage their playfulness we sang songs through our snorkels. It seemed to work and the more vocal and excited we became more dolphins came out to play and show off their acrobatic skills.

I mentioned to Tracy later that my goggles had become a little loose, she smiled and said “that’s because you were smiling so much under the water.”

Floating back to the boat the strong waves gave the team a helping hand as they heaved everyone back on board. Time to warm up with a hot shower (when I say I shower, I mean hosepipe..!)

Seals and marine life

The skipper then sailed us to calmer waters where we could relax and get changed overlooking a seal colony. The rain finally stopped as we sailed back to land and I was so excited to see albatross with their incredible wing spans skimming the water around us.

I feel very privileged to have entered into the dusky dolphin’s world. It was a completely different perspective than just watching from afar and I’d love to do it again – although maybe in slightly calmer waters next time…

A day on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds

Waking up early on a crisp morning in New Zealand we set out in our little campervan for Milford Sounds.

Mirror Lake

The drive was beautiful, firstly stopping at Mirror Lakes which, as the guide book had promised, has a perfect reflection of the magnificent mountains behind. The quirky sign made me smile with the reflection spelling out the name of the lake.

Further south we passed fields of lupins with their purple and pinks creating an oil painting effect against the landscape and their  sweet smell filling the car with the scent of spring.

We’d rearranged our plans to reach Milford sooner because we were warned of heavy rainfall which may close the road leading in and out of the tiny town.  As we drove past the incredible glacial mountains and through the avalanche zone we quickly realised why it would be unsafe to drive in bad weather.

Luckily we were graced with sunshine and as we drove through the Homer Tunnel, carved through the mountain, the chill in the air dispersed like the wispy clouds.

Driving to Milford through the clouds

Pre-booked onto the 11:10 Mitre Peak cruise we eagerly strode to the front of the queue to get a good seat on top-deck.

Tour boat on Milford Sounds

Milford Sounds is sighted at the most impressive in Fiordland. The deep blue water contrasting with the looming cliffs above was an awesome sight. We passed incredible fresh waterfalls; one at 162 meters is much higher than Niagara Falls (but not as wide of course!) 

There was an icy chill in the air as the boat meandered through the Sounds, passing the fishing areas where crayfish is caught and within 48 hours on sale in China.

Sailing further towards the Tasman Sea we turned at St Annes Point. Heading back through the sheer cliffs, the 75 birth boat felt like a tiny speck.

Seal colony

We passed a seal colony, watching the young male seals basking in the sunshine was a perfect end to the journey.  

With some energy left as we drove back we put on our walking boots and hiked to Key Summit. A beautiful three hour walk through a mixture of vegetation including the native New Zealand forest, alpine tracks and a nature walk at the top explaining the history of the land.

The breath-taking views of the Hollyford, Greenstone and Eglington Valleys in the late afternoon sun was my favourite part of the day.

Key summit trek

It is a long way to go for a two hour cruise but the views and stops en-route made it worthwhile. If I were to go again I think I’d do one of the overnight cruises and if my budget allowed I’d take a helicopter flight too... 

Walking on ice

Fox Glacier

We woke to a beautifully clear blue sky and warm sunshine. Packing up the campervan quickly we hit the road for our ice walking tour with Fox Glacier Guiding.

Getting kitted out

Fox Glacier spans 13km in the West of the South Island of New Zealand. Booked onto the half day guided tour we approached with different levels of excitement and trepidation.

Time for a delicious, filling breakfast in the Hobnail café before we were fitted for our equipment.I was the only one in the group who had my own walking boots but there were all sizes available for everyone else to borrow. Socks, bags and waterproofs were also lent before we set out on the short drive to the glacier.

There was a sudden dip in the road as we moved over to the pacific plate – the shift was distinctly noticeable, like dipping down on a rollercoster.

Eager to get onto the ice we chose the ‘English Charm’ of guide, Joe, as the group split in to two to traverse the route separately. 

Following our guide on the ice

Trekking past the icy streams Joe explained that the milky appearance is created by the rocks rubbing together forming a grey dust in the fresh water.

The surrounding vegetation was beautiful with a big pool reflecting bright blues and greens and waterfalls trickling down into the steam beneath.

The looming cliffs towered above as us as we navigated our way to the glacier terminus. Now to secure our crampons and it was time to walk on the ice.

The guides spend around  four hours every morning cutting paths and steps into the ice. Until recently the tours only walked on the cut paths but now the route includes walking on the untouched ice which was surprisingly stable and easy enough to walk on. Having said that every guide still carries a pick axe to hack at any areas that needing re-paving to help all levels of trekkers.

Colourful pools

The sunshine beamed down on us making the ice glisten even more brightly blue and white than it seemed from the base.

Meandering through the paths and ridges we learned about the history of the glacier and how it had grown and shrunk and how it and the Franz Josef Glaciers move ten times faster than any other valley glaciers in the world.

Ooops I wasn't meant to step in there

We had the chance to get close to the crevices. Being a little too excited I didn’t hear Joe shout “don’t go all the way in” as I trudged down the steps and stepped straight into the icy water gathered at the bottom.  It was still beautiful though and wearing my trusty boots that took me all the way up Kilimanjaro I didn’t even get soggy feet!

When we booked the half day tour I wondered if just one hour on the ice would be enough, it turns out that we spent a little longer than that which was plenty of time and at $115 within our budget.

The previous day we’d done a free walk up to Franz Josef glacier, 35kms north of Fox. It was beautiful but nothing compared to actually walking on the ice and being so close to the magnificent beauty. I’d recommend anyone visiting this part of New Zealand to take a trip on Fox Glacier. 

New York: Top Picks

View from Top of The Rock

Two days in New York is not much time but with a busy schedule, a pair of comfy boots and a warm coat I managed to tick everything off my list and even managed to see a couple of things by day and by night. It’s hard to choose but my top two picks for a visit to New York are:

Top of the Rock

For $25 I took the elevator up 67 floors to the observation deck of the Rockefeller Centre. If you’re afraid of heights don’t look up in the lift, but then again if you’re afraid of heights this probably isn’t the pick for you. The glass walled observation deck gave beautiful views of the city but climbing a couple more flights of stairs to the 70^th floor and I was quite literally at the Top of the Rock.

It was one of those beautifully crisp and sunny winter mornings and as I looked out over New York I was completely overwhelmed. Skyscrapers were bursting out of the gridded streets, Central Park cut neatly into the landscape and the Statue of Liberty stood tall in the distance.

Panoramic view from Top of The Rock

Not only does this give the most fantastic views but was a great first stop to orientate myself with the city. Not known for my sense of direction I was pleasantly surprised at just how easy it was to navigate the city and having seen it from above initially really helped in not getting lost!

I wasn’t sure of my evening plans so opted for just a day ticket but next time I visit I’ll pay the extra $13 to get the night time pass so I can see the ‘city that never sleeps’ by night too.

The High Line

The Husdon River from The Highline

The Highline stretches from Gansevoort Street in the Meatpacking District  to West 34th Street, between 10^th/11^th 30ft above the city. 

Its original purpose was the railway line from the meat packing district but had been unused since the 1960’s. The NYC Park Authority opened it as a walk way in 2009 with plants growing, art sculptures and even wooden sun loungers a long route.

It’s a stunning walk with the Hudson River to the West and the City on the East giving a unique perspective of the city. I loved just looking over the viewing platforms and watching the world go by, oblivious to the spectators above.

View from The Highline

I walked up heading North but if I did it again I’d probably walk the other way – ending up in Chelsea to warm up with a coffee and take a stroll through to Perry Street (the SATC fans will want to stop off here..)

For more sightseeing tips and a comparison of New York and London check out my other New York blog.